Category Archives: Japan, Travel & Culture

Finding My Destination on Tokyo Transit

At first—and even after some experience—deciphering Tokyo’s transit map can be much like navigating a Jackson Pollock painting. Continue reading

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Staring at Marie-Gabrielle

After nearly a week in a culture where people avoid making eye contact, a woman holds my gaze in challenge. How refreshing to stare at each other without being thought rude.

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Ueno Park, Tokyo

The broad, tree-lined avenues of Tokyo’s first public park are alive with dappled shadows, visitors and street artists. A most popular spot in spring for its cherry blossoms, the sakura leaves are not yet gold on this autumnal day. However, … Continue reading

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Sensoji Pagoda & Tokyo Sky Tree

Because of its slower pace and older character I chose to stay in Taito, a working-class neighbourhood around Asakusa Sensoji, Tokyo’s oldest temple sacred to Bodhisattva Kannon, goddess of mercy. From my hotel balcony I see the spire of Gojyunotou, … Continue reading

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Finding Sushi

The narrow street is dark but for the dim glow of lanterns. Anywhere else as a woman alone I’d stick to broad, well-lit thoroughfares. However, so long as you’re not blazingly stupid about it, Japan is safe after dark. By … Continue reading

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Evening in Tokyo

An intensely orange sunset plays out across the sky. Tokyo’s traffic-fugue floats upward into the high-rise canyons. The city’s 24-hour, open-throated roar—akin to a fog-horn blast—plays pedal tone to random pizzicato horns. Three-beer laughter from the salary men at the … Continue reading

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Taito’s Traditional Craft Museum

Drawn in by bright red posts festooned with crimson maple leaves arching over a covered street, I decide to follow wherever it leads. Japan has many shotengai like it, covered avenues filled with tiny shops of every sort. From inside … Continue reading

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Bicycle Menace

While chatting at breakfast with a career diplomat on leave from Kabul, he says: It’s nice to be back. It’s so safe. No worries about suicide bombers. You’re right, I answer. You’re more likely to get killed by a bicycle.

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Learning to get around

In seconds it’s possible to become disoriented in Tokyo’s snakes-and-ladders streets. Sometimes it’s much easier to haphazardly wander than  find a specific location. Doorways often aren’t numbered in Arabic numerals. Outside the major tourist hot-spots, signs are primarily in Japanese.

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Body Language: A Surprise

Every time I enter a crowded elevator or the hotel breakfast room it happens. Immediately everyone shrinks slightly and turns away from me, a subtle but noticeable shift. As a non-Japanese travelling most mostly among nationals I’m not sure how, … Continue reading

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